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Understanding Mountain Dulcimer Maintenance | The Mountain Dulcimer and Healing Music
There's More to Healthy Hammering than Health!

The purpose of this article is to highlight some of the typical questions that many mountain dulcimer players, both those new to the instrument and those with more experience, may have regarding the care of their dulcimer as well as adjustment and repair. The issues covered represent those of most concern to players in the dulcimer maintenance classes I have taught over the years and questions I have dealt with as a stringed instrument repairman who plays and loves dulcimers!

Let's begin with what is often the most immediate concern for many players-- that is the strings.

What size should I use?

The best "size"--more properly referred to as the string gauge--is basically determined by two factors: the tuning--or notes to which the strings will be tuned-- and the scale length of your instrument.

To measure the scale length look at your dulcimer as you hold it in your lap. You will see that the strings are suspended between two pieces, one at either end. At the peg-head end is the "nut," which has slots through which the strings pass. At the other end is the "bridge" (or saddle). The measurement between the nut and the bridge is the "vibrating string length"or scale length. This will vary among builders, with 25" being a shorter scale length dulcimer, 28" being more average, and 29" and up being longer. In measuring dulcimers around my house, I found them from 25" to 29-1/2".

The other factor in choosing string gauges is the tuning that you want to use. A common misconception is that the larger (thicker?) the string the "tougher" it is, and the less likely it is to break when tuning it up. In fact, it is just the reverse. The thinner the string, the farther it can be stretched and the higher it can be tuned.

In selecting strings you are trying to achieve a balance between the tunings you want to use and the scale length involved. Tunings such as "Ionian" (Do-Sol-Sol) can be thought of as "lower" tunings because the pitch to which the treble (melody) string(s) is tuned is lower, and so the string is under less tension. Examples would be DAA or CGG tunings. An example of a "higher" tuning would be "Mixolydian" (Do- Sol-Do) tunings such as DAD, in which the melody string is tuned a full octave above the bass string.

For our purposes, when you select string gauges, you may consider using the following gauges, which are considered "average" and good starting points:

     Treble (melody) string (single or double, same gauge): .011
     Middle string: .012
     Bass string: .022 wound string

My dulcimer seems hard to play. What's wrong?

As you hold your dulcimer in your lap, look again at the nut (the piece at the left with the slots through which the strings pass) and the bridge (the piece at the other end). They determine the action of your dulcimer. The term "action" refers to the height distance between the strings and the fingerboard. If you feel your instrument is difficult to play, it may be that the nut or bridge (or both) is too high. If that is the case they may need to be lowered for ease of playing. This should be done by a professional. It is not recommended that you attempt this yourself. Low action is good, in that the playing is easier, but too low poses its own set of problems, such as unwanted buzzes, dead notes, etc. Strings which seem to "hang up" in the slots when tuning, and open string buzzes, may also be indications of a nut or bridge in need of adjustment. Ideally, you should consult someone who particularly understands dulcimers. There are factors involved, peculiar to the dulcimer, which the average guitar technician is not familiar with. One other thing to be on the alert for. Both the nut and bridge should be secured by a touch of glue so as not to move.

What do I need to know about my frets?

The most important considerations regarding your frets are their placement and their condition.

On a modern dulcimer by a reputable builder we can assume that the fret placement is correct. This may not be the case if you have a flea market, "homemade" dulcimer, or one made from a poorly-designed kit. If the intonation is off, that is, if it doesn't seem to play in tune--or if you are unsure about it--you can further evaluate this by checking each individual fret with an electronic tuner. In order to do this the strings need to be reasonably new. If in doubt, replace with fresh strings first. You actually will only need one melody string to make this determination.

Next, the condition of your dulcimer's frets. The frets need to be level. This means that they all need to be the same height. If you have string buzzes or undesirable noise when certain notes are played, you may have some frets that are either too high or too low. This is not an uncommon situation. They may not have been properly leveled when the dulcimer was made and it is just now becoming apparent due to a new tuning you are using, a change of string gauges, or just an increased awareness on your part. However, over time things may simply have changed. Frets can ride up out of their slots, fingerboards can bow, causing a series of frets to be too high, and other anomalies can occur. You will need a professional repairperson to evaluate this for you and to correct the problem.

Another thing to consider would be whether or not you have worn frets. As you play and press the strings down against the frets, the vibration of the strings causes indentations on the fret under the string. These eventually become more serious cuts in the fret wire. This happens on all fretted instruments and is unavoidable. The more you play, the faster it happens. Fret wear alone will also cause extraneous noise, and it makes your instrument harder to play. A professional repairperson can "dress" your frets, taking out the wear. Eventually frets have to be replaced, but if you have them dressed when needed you extend the life of the fret wire and postpone the time when replacement is necessary. It's like rotating the tires on your car. They last longer. A good time to evaluate this is when changing strings. At this same time when the strings are off, you can lightly scrub your fingerboard with 0000 steel wool, which will clean the board and polish the frets. This is good routine maintenance.

My tuning pegs seem to slip. What should I do?

There are basically 3 types of tuners: geared tuners, mechanical friction pegs, and violin-style friction pegs.

Most modern builders use geared tuners. These are the same tuners that you find on guitars and banjos. They are quick, accurate and allow for finer tuning than the other styles. They typically do not slip at all. Many have a screw on the end that needs to be tightened slightly on occasion.

The mechanical friction pegs look similar to geared tuners, also with a screw, but minus the gearbox. These compression type tuners do slip and will not hold unless the screw is kept tight. But not too tight! You rarely find these on new dulcimers. They were commonly used on older instruments, especially cheaper banjos, and you still see them on ukuleles.

The violin-style friction peg is still used in the building of traditional style dulcimers. They have been used for centuries on violins, lutes and other instruments. Before the advent of modern tuners they were the standard on dulcimers, if you don't count those early dulcimers that had the zither pin arrangement. The degree to which violin-style friction pegs work varies greatly. If they are hardwood, well made and fitted properly, they work reasonably well. If not, they can be a nightmare, or at least pretty darned troublesome, taking a lot of the fun out of your dulcimer experience. Be advised that if you have this style you will probably find them more agreeable in the lower tunings such as CGG or DAA. If you try to use them for higher tunings such as DAD, or if you want to change tunings frequently, they can become aggravating. You will need to experiment with your particular instrument to figure this out, as some work better than others. All of them, however, require some attention to work as well as best they can.

The two complaints about these violin-style friction pegs are that they slip or that they stick. Both are certainly true. During the winter months, all instruments dry out to some degree. This is the time when slipping is a problem. During the summer or more humid period these pegs tend to become sticky and harder to turn.

Surprisingly, the solution is essentially the same. What you want to do is to change the nature of the contact made by between the peg and the inside of the hole in the peg box. Try this: Remove the peg and buff it lightly with 150 grit or so sandpaper. At your local violin shop, buy some "peg dope" made for violin pegs and apply a small amount of this to the parts of the peg that contact the peg box. The peg dope has both a gritty and a lubricating quality to it. The old-timers used to use a mixture of chalk and soap. This should help. If problems persist, contact your "dulcimer doctor." One final word on violin-style pegs. You will probably find that you and your pegs will be happier with a somewhat lighter gauge string than you may use on your dulcimers with other tuners. Happy Tuning!

How do I care for the finish on my dulcimer?

A common question and an easy one to answer! To polish it up and take off the fingerprints, use a soft, dry cloth. For the peanut butter or salsa residue, use a slightly damp cloth first. After cleaning, it is safe to occasionally use a very light application of polish made for guitars. It is best not to use furniture polish, which will just lie on the surface and collect dirt, or oils, which can permeate the wood and adversely affect the resonance and sound of the instrument. For more serious finish problems, consult the builder first.

In an article of this length it is impossible to address all the concerns that one might have. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me using the information given below.

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About the Author

Joseph Shelton has worked as a professional string instrument repairman for 25 years, specializing in acoustic fretted instrument and violin repair. He has also been the "Dulcimer Doctor" on staff at Western Carolina University Dulcimer Week in Cullowhee, NC, for the past 5 years and 12 years prior to that at the Appalachian State University Dulcimer Playing Workshop in Boone, NC. In that capacity he has repaired and restored hundreds of mountain dulcimers. An avid old-time musician, primarily a fiddler, he teaches and plays mountain and hammered dulcimers, banjo, autoharp, mandolin and guitar. Joseph plays regularly with his band, the "Hometown Boys," as well as performing solo and also with his wife, Marie, in their group, "Toneflyer."

For more information on repair, Joseph can be reached in Greensboro, NC at dulcimerdoc@aol.com.